This board is found in a number of multimode SSB radios including the hy-gain 5, Concord 2 and so on although some variation
in the front panel controls and crystals is to be expected. In particular, whilst the two rigs mentioned use 20.555 (double high),
20.330 (High), 20.105 (Mid) or 19.880 (Double Low) other rigs may use a frequency doubler circuit and have crystals exactly half
One of the main problems with this board is poor transmitted audio on the UK frequencies caused by lack of tune range. A
simple fix is to re-tune the relevent crystal trimmer on the PTOS11AOX which may also include a little extra padding with a small
value capacitor. If you fit an eprom board you could "switch in" a capacitor to bring down the frequency from the 27.605MHz (Ch
16 High, FCC) to 27..60125MHz or something near (Ch 1, UK40) and wire this to the spare side of the switch. This can also be
done without the eprom board but will still show Ch 16 instead of Ch 1. At least you would be on frequency and be able to chat
reasonably unobtrusively to other breakers who are on the UK band.
A very common fault includes the AVR going open circuit (Rig lights but theres no tx or rx) or goes short circuit causing
strange effects like no tx on FM but needle hard over on SSB with a loud whistling on the carrier.
The channel switch can go faulty by the ratchet wheel becoming loose on its spindle. Sometimes this can be degreased
with a switch cleaner, dried then glued back with araldite or some similar type of adhesive.
The Darlington transistor can go open circuit causing no power on AM or short circuit resulting in no modulation on AM but
FM and SSB unaffected. You must replace this with the correct type or use two NPN transistors to form a "Darlington" pair.
Q39 and Q40 from a TX/RX switching pair. Any fault here can cause odd effects like the TX/RX functions mixed up, like TX
lights on during RX and only a weak hiss from the speaker.
It will come as no suprise to many of you that the most common faults are caused by inexperienced people fiddling with
adjustments. Very few adjustments can be made satisfactory without the use of proper equipment especially with settings for
SSB. It is a neccessity to follow the manufacturers service manual to the letter. The only SSB adjustment which can easily be
done is the RV5/RV6 carrier null adjustment where you key up the mic on SSB and adjust until no reading is shown on the signal
meter. You need to have your mic set at zero for this or make a simple TX mic plug especially for this task.
If you turn the AM bias adjuster it will show as an increase of power but your modulation depth might go down. With a
scope the setting is simple, without, you can only adust it for the loudest reported modulation on TX. It will be somewhere near
when the AM power is approximately 2/3rds to that of FM.
If your transmitted power is uneven across the bands, adjust the coils as follows. The TX can Lowest on the Pic below
adjusted for best TX power on the lowest channel you have and the TX can just up a little for maximum TX power on the highest
channel you have. Then set it midway between its frequency range and adjust the other two TX cans which are together a little
higher up than the other two for maximum power. You may have to adust again slightly until you acheive the best power spread
you can over all the channels.
If you need to adjust the VCO grubscrew manufacture a properly shaped plastic tool that will fit exactly into the grubscrew
otherwise it will snap and will need replacing. If it does snap i find the best way to remove the grubscrew is to completely
unsolder and remove the VCO block and unscrew it from the other side. If you replace it you need to get the right part otherwise
your VCO coverage could be seriously reduced. You can buy a plastic radio trimming kit, which is quite cheap, which has a
correct size/shaped blade for just this job. Do not, under any circumstance, use metal precision screwdrivers.
If you need to replace the output transistors i find the best way is to unscrew the heatsink from the chassis, then unsolder
the Transistor legs and remove the whole part. That way you can easily unscrew the plastic insulating screw - remove and
replace the transistor itself (making sure the mica washer doesnt drop out) and rescrew back onto the heatsink. Then you can
refit the heatsink in its entirity back onto the main board and re-solder the transistor legs. Its much easier than trying to remove
the transistor in situ.
Please see the diagram below for component positions